Using the stud, the center member is installed and tightened down with a nut. These would be the 10mmx1.5 engine manifold studs that are threaded on both ends with a space between them. The alternative would be to buy an engine manifold stud and put them into the rivet/nut sert with anti seize and/or the good welded nut too. Then use anti seize so it doesn't rust the bolt on, and retorque to around 30 ft-lbs. Once the rivet/nut sert is installed, one will need to buy a 10mmx1.5 bolt around 25-30mm in length from true value or a hardware store. Thus 17.53mm length is the one for the proper grip range and not the 20.45mm. To determine the grip range needed when the vendor (amazon/ebay/truevalue) don't specify it on the package, one can measure the length. See weblink for explanation grip range for a rivet (same concept for rivet/nut serts) Grip range of a rivet is the range of thicknessGrip range of a rivet is the range of thicknessFastener Superstore Blog | Fastener Superstore Blog I'm not sure what the amazon/ebay or true value ones are. Since the metal is not that thick for the sheet metal on the car, I assume that the grip range of 0.3mm-3.8mm is the one to use vs. Once installed in the metal sheet metal frame, the bolt being screwed in will just pinch the frame and center frame together.īe aware that that there are two grip ranges for the 10mmx1.5. It seems strong enough to be used for the center member of the camry/corolla. He shows them going into a hinge for a car hood and into plastic. See weblink that shows how to install them. These come in stainless steel, aluminum, and steel. However, alibaba seems to show that they can be bought. There is no 10mmx1.25 sold on amazon/ebay. Or buy a whole box of various metric sizes off amazon/ebay. Moreover, the intial grip on the largest 3/8 inch they have is 0.027 inch which is 0.6858 mm - close to the metric 0.7mm or lower needed). Some of the workers don't know what a rivet nut is unless you state blind hole. (correction: they only have US std version and not metric and they call it blindhole inserts. You can buy the 10mm.x1.5 at Truevalue hardware and the install tool ($6). I plan to do it using rivet nut/nutserts. I don't have a welder to patch the hole cut. Not sure if cutting a hole behind and above where the welded nut is would maintain strength of this body piece after reattaching the center member. After the last CV axle change by the dealership, the mechanic finished breaking the welded nuts weld causing the nut to float around inside the front part of the frame where the center member attaches to. I used helicoils in the past, but the threads kept coming out when the bolt was taken out and it needed fixing again (on my 1992 corolla). I've been thinking about using time-serts that are 9mm long and 10mmx1.25 to fix one of the broken welded nuts that is stripped and now missing within the frame. I came across this article on how to fix captive/welded nuts that need to be fixed, because the nuts break their welds due to rust, or the welded nuts are stripped.Īn example for the Gen2 are the corner braces where the front swaybar is bolted into, and where the center member bolts onto the front of the frame below the radiator with two bolts and these welded nuts get stripped due to to much torque used by mechanics reattaching center member frame that break the welds or due rust too.
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